A Photographic Journey Through a Khmer Wedding in Cambodia:
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nnDay 2 – Wednesday Morning, February 20, 2013
5:00 am, I awake to music blaring from a loudspeaker pointing directly at my bedroom from 30 yards away. Deafeningly loud persistent music and announcements enlightening the whole community that you are celebrating is a hallmark of most Khmer celebrations. Why should ours be any different? At 6:30 am, I finally drag myself from bed to find I am the last one dressed and awake.
Hai Goan Gomloh – Groom’s Processional
As with many of the ceremonies in Cambodian weddings, the Hai Goan Gomloh symbolizes the mythological marriage of the first Khmer prince to the Naga princess Neang Neak. While the bride waits at her parent’s house, the groom gathers a procession of his family and friends, and journeys to meet the bride.
Today, Vwinn’s makes this symbolic journey to meet his bride Sah Paun. Vwin’s procession is especially figurative as our 32 year old groom has already been living with his 16 year old bride in our house for several months now. This pre-marital living arrangement is extremity atypical in Khmer culture.
As the groom’s procession approaches the bride’s home, Sah Paun’s mother, and father meet Vwin and his parents at the gate. Traditionally, after assessing and accepting the worthiness of gifts brought by the groom, the bride’s parents invite the procession into their home. This symbolic inspection is made, and the procession is invited to enter.
As this was strictly a ceremonial procession, members of Vwin’s procession were not obligated to bring their own gifts. As they enter the wedding tent they are handed the silver and gold trays that the family prepared last night.
Once the procession is seated, they are entertained by musicians and singers singing a traditional song telling of the grooms journey, and the wonderful gifts he has brought.
Hai Choom Gnooun – The Groom Enters
San Paun meets her groom at the gate and escorts Vwin into her home past all the guests.
With her bridesmaids following behind, Sah Paun approaches the parents who sit waiting to receive her.
She performs the traditional Khmer greeting, a bow combined with a bringing of the hands together at the chest known as the ‘Sampeah’. This is presumably to honor the parents for her new husband.
Su Paha, the happy mother of the bride.
Breakfast is served. Bor bah, is a rice porridge and is a traditional food that is eaten almost daily by most Cambodians. It can be very bland and watery with little nutritional value, or enriched with meat and vegitables as families can afford. Today’s offering is rich in flavor and nutrients.
Chambak Rouy – Presenting the Dowry
After breakfast, there is a dialogue between the matchmakers, and parents of the bride and groom. This is the presenting of the dowry ceremony. Arrangements, as I understand it are actually made in advance, but this is the ceremonial discussion. Once the dowry’s details are settled between the families, the arrangement is announced over the PA system for the entire community to hear and know.
The groom’s parents officially present the dowry to the bride’s parents. Sah Paun’s Dowry today is $400 US dollars and the wedding rings.
While this is taking place, the bride and groom undergo another costume change, watch, and wait.
The Rings
A newer Khmer tradition is the exchanging of wedding rings. Sah Paun and Vwin join their parents, and after offering them each gifts of respect, seat themselves for the ring exchange.
This exchange is quick and reminiscent of the ring ceremony in a western wedding. However, there is no exchange of vows, and this does not officially mean they are married yet.
Off for another costume change and to prepare for the next ceremony.
Gaat Sah – Cleansing Ceremony
Traditionally, before the bride and groom are officially married, they must be properly prepared through an elaborate cleansing ceremony. Singers, representing visiting devada (deities who watch over the mortal realms), dance around the bride and groom singing songs of their enchantment with the beauty of the new couple. This act is also cleansing, and purifying them, to bring good fortune, beauty, and grace to the rest of their lives.
A modern twist on this tradition incorporated something more akin to a comedy act. Two singers danced and sang, but also flirted and embarrassed the groomsmen with some culturally surprising touching from the female singer.
This is perhaps the most relaxed I have seen the Sah Paun and Vwin during the entire event so far. Everyone smiles, laughs, and for the first time, the wedding couple actually look like they are having fun.
The cleansing of the bride and groom and preparation for their life as a married couple, includes symbolically cutting their hair. This represents a fresh start to their new relationship together as husband and wife. The bride and groom’s parents, relatives, and friends each take turns emblematically cutting the bride and groom’s hair, blessing them, and wishing them well. In the old days, the bride and groom’s hair were really cut during this ceremony.
More to come next time…
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