Last weekend ‘s official mourning and cremation of King-Father Norodom Sihanouk meant I had a 4 day weekend. It was my first opportunity since being here in Cambodia to enjoy some pure outdoor recreation fun . I went rock climbing. Cambodia is not exactly renowned for rock climbing, but it has received some recognition in Alpinist Magazine, and there is actually a guidebook, Rock Climbing in Cambodia.

In the US, access is perhaps the largest obstruction to developing rock climbing crags. Here in Cambodia it is hazards like land mines. We had a whole lecture about land mines in our training. After three decades of war, there are still a lot of landmines and unexploded ordinance in Cambodia’s rural areas, and wandering off into the jungle is a bad idea. So having a guidebook and a known safe area for climbing is of great comfort.

Although there are no landmines where I was, one threat to this climbing area does exist, and comes from local residents who hack away at the limestone cliffs by hand to make a meager living by quarrying the rock and selling it to local aggregate businesses.

My new friends Ali and Dan invited me on this adventure. I joined them and met three others, Sam, Alix, and Talia in a small town near Kampot called Kampong Trach. My village is about 70K away, so I was able to ride my bike there in a few hours. I have none of my own climbing gear with me, something I now regret leaving behind, so I feel very fortunate to have met up with these folks who have a rope and some gear. Most of the routes in Cambodia are trad, or traditional routes requiring a lot of gear.

We were able to climb three routes that are bolted requiring a minimum of gear. Our first route was on this large dramatic limestone feature known as the Shark’s Fin.

A short bushwhack through thorny brush, accompanied by some local children who appointed themselves as our guides, had us at the base of the climb in no time.

Sam made the first lead on sharp hand biting holds up this beautiful 5.8 arête called Shark’s Teeth. We each took a turn climbing as the gorgeous morning fell victim to the hot mid day sun. Getting an early start if you are going to climb in Cambodia is recommended.

 
Or move to find shade, which we did.

The second crag we visited is called the Cloister Wall. We did two routes here. The first was called Natural and it is a 5.10a.

Cloister Wall is on a road and a bit more public, so it was not long before we drew a crowed of local spectators. The offer was made, but none of the locals wanted to try.

The last climb we did, also on Cloister Wall, is called Chute, a 5.9. This is perhaps the most classic chimney climb I have ever done in spite of the many sharp holds and underrated painful start.

There is tremendous potential for route development at this area. Any one that wants to bring me my rack and bolt kit is welcome!

Aside from a few climbers like us, a few other tourists come visit Kampong Trach to see series of interesting caves. The center of the mountain on which we were climbing is actually a stunning caldera like hollow called the Fish Bowl.

Several caves like this one traverse through the mountain to access it. We entered through a back door cave marked by a small shrine. The cave is long enough to get real dark, so a headlamp is recommended. We of course did not all have one and resorted to using cell phones to light our way.

Suddenly there is a light at the end of the tunnel, and it opens into the Fish Bowl, a large circular rock walled room open to the sky above. It is lush and green with vines and plants hanging from the walls all around you.

There are nooks and side caves all around containing Buddhist shrines and relics. An amazing serine atmosphere exists here and it is a wonderful place to explore.

…or just relax.

***UPDATE***

Watch this video of our trip Ali  put together.

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