On Sunday, I hiked up Phnom Bayong Kao, a 1,027-foot (313-meter) mountain in Kirivong Town, Cambodia. The peak rises abruptly from the pancake flat rice fields of the Mekong Delta near the Vietnamese boarder. It felt a bit more like a cattle drive through the jungle than the Colorado hikes I am used to. It was super-hot and humid, and I was hiking with 55 of my fellow trainees. I do not think I have ever done a hike with so many people at once. Sunday is our only day off and when it was suggested we could drive south a bit and hike a mountain, all but two of us jumped at the opportunity.
The hike up the cliff rimmed Phnom Bayong is a steep one. You climb from Kirivong past open pit gem mines and then steeply through jungle up a narrow un-marked single-track trail that is not well developed. Although the elevation is not great, the heat and humidity is oppressive and I felt sapped of energy. Near the summit, the trail leads to a long series of irregular stone steps that climb to the impressive very old “Chenla Temple” ruin. I also heard it called “By Jong Kao”.
The Temple was built in the 7th century pre-dating the famous 16th century Angkor Wat that Cambodia is so famous for. I am told it is one of the first settlements or perhaps Wats built in Cambodia, but who really knows. I liked the idea that the first ancient temple I got to see is so old and remote. It really felt like something Indiana Jones would have been looking for. Interestingly, most of the group, all of whom are younger than I, alternately referenced Laura Kroft from Tomb Raider.
The narrow summit and Temple are surrounded by the remnants of concentric walls. Although in disrepair, it is all quite impressive. There are several badly worn Bas Relief panels carved into the exterior brickwork and false doorways on the temple’s four sides. The interior has several Buddha sculptures and candles looked after by several caretakers who happily offer you palm reading and fortune telling for a small donation. A few of us partook in their wisdom. I also read the temple once contained a lingam that now resides in Paris at the Musee Guimet.
From the summit, there are outstanding views towards Vietnam and of the rice fields in the surrounding countryside. It felt great to be up above the countryside looking down. There was even a wonderful cool breeze.
Here is a slide show from the hike.
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