Wat Phnom Sombok

People looking for the irrawddy freshwater dolphins (trey pisaut)from boats on the Mekong River, Kratie Province, Cambodia
On the way to see the Irrawaddy River Dolphins outside Kratie, Cambodia, a worthwhile stop is at Phnom Sombok (seen above beyond the boat). This lone hill stands on the east bank of the Mekong River with a beautiful Wat at its summit.

The Wat on the summit of the hill Phnom Sombok, Kratie Province, Cambodia

I found it to be a very interesting place. It was one of the most maintained Wats I have seen, and I suspect it is so because of financial support received from several German and Australian meditation groups whose names appear  posted around the grounds.

Staircase to the summit of the hill Phnom Sombok, Kratie Province, Cambodia

To get to the Wat complex that covers the whole summit, you climb several sets of stairs past a line of 100 statues, two Buddha and 98 monks.

98 monk and 2 Buddha statues line the stairway to  Wat on the summit of the hill Phnom Sombok, Kratie Province, Cambodia
The top most statues were still under construction being sculpted in place from cement by several very friendly young artists.

The Wat on the summit of the hill Phnom Sombok, Kratie Province, Cambodia
A man sculpting monk statues at the Wat on the summit of the hill Phnom Sombok, Kratie Province, Cambodia

Between the Wat complexes, is a rather halting series of paintings.

Mural of torture at Wat on the summit of the hill Phnom Sombok, Kratie Province, Cambodia
These contemporary murals depict some of the most astonishing violence I have ever seen in Buddhist temple art. I have actually noticed that here in Cambodia, the Buddhist art often features violence. But these murals are some of the most intense I have yet seen.

Mural of torture at Wat on the summit of the hill Phnom Sombok, Kratie Province, Cambodia

There was no one around to ask for clarification, but it seems to me this is a representation of hell, and these torture scenes are depictions of what is faced by those who are not virtuous. I’m not sure why women seem to be featured so predominantly in this hell.

Mural of torture at Wat on the summit of the hill Phnom Sombok, Kratie Province, Cambodia

It comes to my mind that these scenes are influenced by the horrible violence of Cambodia’s history. It is often easy to forget that Cambodia is a post conflict, post genocidal country. With a large percentage of its current population being survivors of such dark times, this history and its influence is never far from the surface.

Rich Durnan at Pnom Sombok  in Krati Cambodia Photo by Evan Miller

Thanks to Evan for being a great travel partner and for providing a few shots of me behind the camera.


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